A sad Sunday

By on March 25th        0 Comments   /   show comments



“If won’t die I will break many hearts..,” said the old lady laughing.

I was glad to meet her.  It is quite difficult to find people with such a sense of humor at the Mesa (Inner) Mani area, in Lakonia region, in Pelponnesus. And I was right there that summer afternoon. At the eastern part of Mesa Mani for the accuracy. At the village of Laya. And I went to that small café to drink a cold lemonade.

It was so hot that day …


Λάγια, Μάνη


It was called Bey’s cafe. Mrs. Vasilo Georgariou – the  coffeehouse owner ‘s wife – told me about her life in the village. And she spoke about her own wisdom for this life.

“How do you spend your time?” I asked her. “Like a fish on fire or like a fish in the sea …”. she answered . What and oracular answer…



Λάγια, Μάνη



I sipped a little lemonade and watched the fully decorated walls. The cafe was like the cave of Ali Baba: old, colored or black and white photos hanging everywhere, ancient paintings showing grandmothers in the village, towers,  prickly pears, knives, worry beads, walking sticks, shells,  sculptures, more paintings…

The walls are painted (like frescoes) with some nice looking portraits and other popular topics. An awesome bizarre gallery …

The old lady had two sons: a sculptor and a painter. Both sons are responsible for the strange looking artistic interventions in this fairy tale café.

She sat next to me at the table. And next to her, a grandmother was painted on the wall. “She’s  Gorgona, my husband’s cousin. She was very beautiful once … “.


Λάγια, Μάνη



What about the village, Laya? ” 1000 people lived here before the war,” she said . “We produced many lupina (short of beans) then”. And she told me all about the laborious process of making those beans edible, with washing them again and again so they would become less bitter

It was nice and cool however in the café.

I saw on a wall the painted story of Kyriaki the Adikioti (Kyriaki is a female name means Sunday in Greek. Adikioti means that she never found vindication ). It sounded strange to me… Adikioti… Why?

“What is this?” I asked the lady.

“The old days there was a girl, with nice long black hair called Kyriaki (Sunday). When she was twenty years old a young guy had asked to marry her but her brother did not gave permission. Then this guy followed the girl and cut off her long beautiful hair. And then Sunday committed suicide because of her shame. Her brother wiped out the other guy’s whole family for revenge. And then her brother was crying in the grave of his sister, calling her, between his tears, “adikioti”  (that she never found vindication)…

A sad Sunday. In a coffee shop in Mani.

In a half-empty village. Surrounded by old towers, Byzantine churches, stone reliefs on doors, walls, lintels, in a charming architectural unit.

A large village… A huge abandonment…

It was so hot that day …



Λάγια, Μάνη




Where am I?
Laya village is located in eastern Mani, in Lakonia region, in southern Peloponnesus. The quickest way to get there is through Sparta city and Gythio town.



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